The Conservative Cook

Doing Food Right  - with Pauline Boren

Entries from February 1, 2008 - March 1, 2008

Play It Again...Soup

Just when I thought winter was almost over, and spring was around the corner, the groundhog decided differently. We’ve got another few weeks of winter. With cooler weather still with us, there’s still time for another pot of soup. This time it’s Clam Chowder.

I have been making my famous clam chowder recipe since I lived in Santa Barbara some years ago. My co-workers at the time and I frequented a wonderful cafeteria for lunch. On Fridays, they never failed to have a beautiful white creamy pot of clam chowder. Wow, it was so delicious, it soon turned out to be my favorite soup.

Since I lunched there so often, I got to know the owner, and one day asked him if he could just tell me the ingredients. If I experimented with different measurements, I might be able to come up with something close to his, or at least enough like his. He was kind enough to give me the recipe, but it was for 5 gallons of soup. They made it fresh every Friday morning and it became the most popular Friday soup on the cafeteria counter.

It’s been a long time now since acquiring that recipe. It is still in my head and I’ve literally made it hundreds of times. I have written it down for friends from time to time, but for us, it’s made from memory without digging out the old recipe. When you find something you love to make, it becomes second nature to you. I’ve tried many clam chowders in California , Arizona and also on the East Coast; namely, Boston . Even though Boston Clam Chowder is the name you hear most often, the Santa Barbara recipe still remains my favorite.

So many chefs begin with a bacon base. I disagree with bacon coming anywhere near a true clam chowder. Why add extra smoky flavor and calories. Isn’t it supposed to be clam chowder, not clam-bacon chowder? At least I think so.

As you know from following The Conservative Cook recipes, I rarely stick to anything I read in a cookbook. Once I’ve made it a couple of times and learn the basic premise, there is so much room for variety and, I think, improvement. You also get a great deal of satisfaction coming up with new delicious twists on old recipes. I enjoy playing with the ingredients, adding some or substituting others. Like the onion, for instance, if I have green onions available, I like using two or three or instead of the Spanish onion. If you prefer a richer soup, you can substitute half-and-half for the milk and water. I prefer to use the chicken stock though because I think it adds a depth of flavor. Here’s what I came up with, and which I think you’ll enjoy too.

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CLAM CHOWDER

2 Tbsp butter

1 Tbsp olive oil

½ Spanish onion, chopped (¼ inch pieces)

2 stalks celery, chopped (½ inch pieces)

1 medium size potato, chopped (½ inch pieces)

(I used Yukon Gold.)

1 can clams (10oz baby or 6.5 oz chopped)

(Drain clams and reserve liquid.)

1 14oz can chicken stock

½ cup water

1 cup milk (whole, lowfat or fat free)

2 Tbsp fresh or dried parsley (one Tbsp for

soup and one for garnish)

1 sprinkle red pepper flakes (optional)

salt and pepper to taste

Heat soup pan over medium heat. Add butter and oil. Add onion and cook slowly until golden. Add celery, potato and clam liquid, and simmer covered until potato and celery are tender.

Add stock, water, milk, half the parsley, salt, pepper and red pepper flakes—if you choose to use them.

Bring the pot to a boil, add clams and slowly simmer about 15 or 20 minutes. It’s ready to serve. Top with remaining parsley.

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The potato you choose to use will also make a difference in the thickness of the soup. The Yukon Gold holds its shape, while a Russet would break down a little more and make a thicker soup. If you prefer a thicker soup, you can mash the potato after it has cooked. To further thicken it you can also dissolve two tablespoons flour in ¼ cup cold milk, and gradually stir it into the boiling soup before you simmer it for the last 15 or 20 minutes. Don’t cook it at a rapid boil, or longer than 20 minutes. Overcooked clams will be tough and chewy.

A bowl of hot Clam Chowder makes a great lunch. It’s also is a filling and nutritional light dinner accompanied by a little salad and some grilled bread, biscuits, crackers, or topped with a few croutons. I prefer it as a hot lunch with a few saltine crackers, and that’s how I photographed it here.

It also keeps well for a couple of days if immediately stored in a tightly sealed container and refrigerated. It can also be frozen without losing any flavor or texture. Enjoy!

Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 at 05:30AM by Registered CommenterLowDownCentral in | CommentsPost a Comment | EmailEmail | PrintPrint

Anyone For Dessert?

After you’ve enjoyed a full dinner—or perhaps only a small meal like a bowl of soup or a salad—you’re probably craving a little something sweet to finish your dining experience. I know I always do. You probably don’t want anything too rich or heavy, and may even crave something that has a little nutritional value. It seems like we’re always “trying to be good” and watching our calories. Most rich and gooey desserts always taste good while we’re enjoying them, but it often comes with the attendant guilt of being too high in calories. I think I can help you out here. How about a little fruit dessert that’s also skimpy on calories. You’ve heard that an apple a day keeps the doctor away. Well, what better way to get an apple in for the day with a little slice of apple heaven!

I’m going to create a moist and tasty apple dessert that comes with a fancy name—Apple Torte. Don’t let the word “torte” scare you. A torte is simply a cake with a fruit baked in, or it can be arranged across the top. Actually, any chef can call a unique creation a torte. There are no baking rules! One or more fruits of similar texture (for even baking) are generally used.

My torte has fresh unpeeled red apples. By placing them in the pan as the first ingredient with butter and brown sugar, it has a sticky and wonderfully moist texture—a lot like an upside-down cake. To make it a little decadent, you could top it with some whipped cream, ice cream or a drizzle of caramel sauce. I served it plain—right from the oven—and it was delicious. The extra toppings can enhance the presentation if you decide to serve it as the dessert to dinner guests.

Okay, let’s begin.

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APPLE TORTE

2 red apples, unpeeled, cored and sliced (I like Honey Crisp when available)

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(You could substitute any firm-textured apple. They hold up better in baking. If you prefer green apples, Granny Smith or Pippin are both excellent choices, and the presentation is as beautiful as the red.)

1 envelope instant yeast (1/4 oz.)

½ cup milk (whole, low-fat or fat-free)

1 cup flour

½ cup granulated sugar

2 eggs

½ tsp cinnamon

2 Tbsp melted butter

2 Tbsp brown sugar

Preheat oven to 375°.

Cut apples in half (from top to stem), remove seeds and cut into ¾-inch slices.

Grease the sides of a 9” round non-stick baking pan. Place the butter in the pan, hold it over a hot burner for just a couple of seconds—long enough to melt it and coat the pan. Sprinkle the brown sugar over the buttered bottom. Arrange the apple slices in a circular motion (see photo below). After it’s baked, the bottom will become the top when you flip it onto the serving plate. When arranging the slices, you’ll be making a second layer since 2 sliced apples take more surface space than one 9-inch pan. The batter over the top binds them together.

Dissolve the yeast in the milk. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, sugar, eggs and cinnamon and mix well. Then add the milk/yeast mixture and stir to combine.

Pour the batter over the apples to completely cover them. Bake 30 to 45 minutes, or until a toothpick or skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean.

Remove from oven and cool 5 or 10 minutes. Place a flat serving plate over the pan. With a firm grip on both the pan and plate, carefully invert the pan. Slowly lift the pan off the cake. Your finished product will look like the photo.

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Enjoy—you are about to have your apple-a-day experience!

Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2008 at 05:46AM by Registered CommenterLowDownCentral in | CommentsPost a Comment | EmailEmail | PrintPrint

Sweets for you, Valentine ♥

What thoughts does Valentine’s Day conjure up in your mind? Are they about diamonds, flowers, perfume, champagne, fancy bon bons, or all of the above? Don’t get me wrong; I like all of those things too; however, because I love to cook, I think of tasty sweet morsels dressed up in lace, doilies, red cellophane and ribbons. I prefer the simple recipes I can whip up without too much thought or effort. I usually make four or five, but because of the limited space here, I don’t want to stress you out with too many recipes. I’ll concentrate on just two. The other cookies in the Crocante photo below are Molasses Nutmeg Crisps and Austrian Fruit Cookies. I may include those recipes in a later cookie article.

Lots of people think that recipes for fine sweets must also be very difficult and complicated to follow. I used to feel that way about cooked recipes for divinity or toffee; however, I tend to steer clear of those and stick with the easy ones. I’m going to show you how making candy doesn’t have to be painful. You may have read through some fancy dessert cookbooks, and seen some recipes that even require special equipment, but more importantly, lots of patience and time stirring a pot over a hot stove, and then more measuring and more stirring.

Like I mentioned before, I always seek out the easiest recipes, try them once, and then vary to make them easier and better. That’s what I’ve tried to do here today. If you take some pride in what you turn out in the kitchen, you can have some fun, and at the same time create an eye-pleasing and tasty sweet. You may choose to wrap it up and give it as a gift, or enjoy sharing it after dinner with your family, or co-workers. If you’re not much of a cook, just think how surprised and happy your children will be to find a piece of mom’s homemade candy in their lunch box.

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Ok, let’s begin with my Crocante recipe. Crocante is an Italian crunchy and nutty brickle. “Crocante” translates to “crunchy”. My mom made this with apricot seeds and walnuts. Since I had some apricots and we saved the seeds, I made it with the seeds one time. It was delicious, but since the seeds aren’t always readily available at your supermarket, you can substitute almonds, or walnuts. I’ve made it with both and they were equally good. Actually, I can’t think of a reason why any nut would not be a good substitute. I personally think this recipe is a winner.

 

 

CROCANTE

1 cup granulated sugar

¼ cup water

1 shake of salt

1-1/2 cups chopped nuts (apricot seeds, almonds, walnuts, etc.)

Prepare your surface by pouring a little oil on a cutting board—or any flat surface. This will keep the aluminum foil in place. Then place a piece of foil on top so it sticks to the surface of the board. Now also spread a few drops of oil onto the foil. This will prevent the candy from sticking to the foil when you turn it out.

Place the sugar, water and salt into a small heavy skillet. Cast iron works well if you have one. Actually, any small pan will do. Over medium heat, melt the sugar and water, but don’t stir it. If you stir, the sugar will crystallize along the sides of the pan. As it cooks and melts, swirl the pan a little so it melts evenly. It will turn a light golden caramel color. Now you can stir and pour in the nuts. Stir until the nuts are all well coated with the golden mixture. It’s done.

Pour it immediately onto your prepared surface, spread it out and allow it to cool. This takes about 10 or 15 minutes to cool completely and harden up. Then break it into bite-size pieces. Store the candy in a covered container.

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There’s a second use for this great stuff. You can chop it smaller and use it as a topping for ice cream, pudding, or even a cake. To chop into smaller bits, place them in a small plastic bag. So as not to damage your countertop, place a kitchen towel under the plastic bag. Bang them with a rolling pin or meat hammer. Store in a sealed jar until ready to use.

And now for my simple chocolate recipe. What speaks more about Valentine’s Day than something chocolate? Even your friends who think you can’t even boil water will be surprised and impressed with this one! It’s so easy and you’ll see how good it is.

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EZ CHOCOLATE FUDGE

2 cups sugar

2/3 cup canned evaporated milk

13 marshmallows (regular size)

½ cup butter (1 stick)

1/8 tsp salt

1 6-oz package chocolate chips

1 cup walnuts (coarsely chopped)

1 tsp vanilla extract

Use a non-stick spray on the bottom and sides of an 8-inch square pan. You can use butter if you prefer. Either glass or metal pan is fine.

Place the first five ingredients into a large saucepan, and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the butter and marshmallows have completely melted and blended with the milk. (This takes about 4 or 5 minutes.) When it reaches the full-boil stage, it will be light golden in color and bubbles will appear over the top. Set the timer and keep stirring on medium heat for an additional 5 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the chocolate chips, walnuts and vanilla and blend well until all the chips have melted. Pour the mixture into the greased pan and spread it out evenly. The fudge will set firm in about 1 hour, or sooner if it’s a cool day. To speed up the set, you can place the pan in the refrigerator.

After it’s set, cut the fudge into 1-inch squares (or larger pieces if you wish). It’s ready! How simple was that? If you’re going to arrange the fudge on a candy serving dish—like I did in the photo below—you could sprinkle it with a little powdered sugar.

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Enjoy, and Happy Valentine’s Day!

Contact: conservativecook@gmail.com

Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 at 08:05AM by Registered CommenterLowDownCentral in | CommentsPost a Comment | EmailEmail | PrintPrint

Finish Your Vegetables!

You know you often heard the expression when you were a kid: Finish your vegetables! It was usually followed by: “or you won’t get any dessert.” I sure did. Today the media is full of news about the benefits of eating lots of fresh vegetables, and the number of recommended daily servings for optimum good health.

In our Italian household, there was never had a shortage of the green stuff on our dinner table. My parents proudly grew all if it in our garden. My dad planted whatever was in season, and we always ate it fresh-picked the same day. Two favorites I especially remember are the Treviso chicory (similar to radicchio in flavor) and arugula (also known as rucola or rocket). Chicory is a little bitter compared to lettuce, and the arugula has a fresh peppery flavor.

Dad planted the vegetable garden each year. At the end of the growing season, he let the chicory and arugula plants dry out and go to seed. Then he’d carefully collect them to reseed the garden for the following year. We were raised in a very conservative home, and needless to say, anything that could be recycled was. Our Italian neighbors did the same, and we all shared the bounties of our gardens.

To keep us kids interested, Mom prepared the vegetables in many different ways. While she varied the menu each night, Dad always made sure we ate all our vegetables. One of her favorites—and now mine—was an arugula and radicchio salad with a simple red wine vinegar dressing. Sometimes she’d fry some chopped pancetta (Italian bacon) and spoon the hot crispy bits over the cold salad. Many restaurants serve a wilted spinach salad with bacon bits prepared basically in the same way.

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Here is a simple recipe you can make up ahead of time and refrigerate in a glass bottle:

Oil and Vinegar Dressing

1 t sugar

1 t salt (or more to taste)

½ t black ground pepper (or more to taste)

2 T red wine vinegar

2 T balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Combine all the ingredients and shake well. This dressing is light and refreshing on any salad, and the one great benefit is that it’s much lower in calories than any creamy variety. If you prefer, you can chop up and fry a couple of slices of pancetta, or bacon, drain and toss in with the salad.

Italy is a country with simple and uncomplicated dishes. The ingredients are pure, rustic and earthy, and artificial colors or flavors are never used in their cooking. The condiments are mainly salt, pepper, garlic and fresh herbs. One popular method of cooking a variety of vegetables is grilling—either outside on a grill or inside in the oven (roasting). Seasoned with only a drizzle of olive oil, salt and pepper, grilling/roasting allows the vegetable’s natural sugars to caramelize, and thus enhances the flavor.

Here are a few simple techniques:

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Some vegetables are more suitable to grilling/roasting because they retain their texture when cooked: Asparagus, eggplant wedges, fennel, green beans, peppers, onions, and zucchini are a few. Large grilled onion rings are an exceptional side to any grilled steak or burger. Be sure to cut the vegetables in more or less the same size to ensure even cooking. Whole radicchio and Belgian endive (just sliced in half lengthwise) are also excellent cooked on the grill.

Here’s all you do:

If using the oven, preheat to 425°. Wash, dry and cut up the vegetables. To prevent sticking, sprinkle a little olive oil on a foil-lined cookie sheet. Arrange the vegetables and drizzle with a little more olive oil, salt and pepper. In the photo below I used red, green and yellow peppers and a couple of zucchini squash.

Place the pan on the middle oven rack and cook 8 or 10 minutes until slightly tender. The bottoms will brown a little from the heat of the pan, and this adds a wonderful flavor. Remove from oven. They are better a little underdone—and become mushy if overcooked.

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If grilling outdoors, to be on the safe side, place on a grill pan so the pieces don’t fall through the grill. Place on hot grill and cook 8 or 10 minutes, turn over to brown a little on the other side. Remove to a plate.

Grilled vegetables can be served as a warm or cold appetizer, in salads or as an accompaniment to the entrée. If you’ve ever had grilled vegetables, you know what I’m talking about, and if you haven’t, you’re missing out on a fine dining experience.

There, now you have a new salad dressing recipe to try out and a grilling/roasting lesson you can master the first time around.

Now go finish all your vegetables and be well!

Posted on Tuesday, February 5, 2008 at 05:31AM by Registered CommenterLowDownCentral in | CommentsPost a Comment | EmailEmail | PrintPrint